Inside a proper nomad ger. One of the women showed us how they make airag (fermented horse milk). Airag is the staple drink of many Mongolians. It smells and tastes like the watery stuff on top of an unstirred tin of gloss paint, and gives you the squits. However, it's such a strong cultural reference point that even the Mongolian word for beer translates literally as 'yellow airag'.